Fittings! Dressing Your Body Shape

There are times we shake our heads in defeat while we scroll through fashions full of perfect bodies in perfect clothes. We understand filters but that doesn’t always make us feel any better. Then, at other times, we catch a glimpse of ourselves in the mirror looking amazing. Chances are we are wearing something that makes sense for our body. We may have taken time to consider which parts of our body should take center stage, and which parts would be better left hidden in the wings. Let’s explore a few basic tricks to camouflage the most common body issues and find confidence dressing your body shape.

Basic tricks for everyone

Dark colors are slimming. Monochromatic outfits create the illusion of height and de-emphasize lack of proportion. Tops, pants, skirts and jackets in different colors break up the body and highlight that area.  Where a hemline or a color change occurs in an outfit, that’s where your eye looks. All of us have a widest part of our leg, probably mid-calf, so keep the hemline above or below it. If you have thick ankles, no ankle strap shoes. Keep it simple in your problem area. Horizontal stripes broaden and vertical stripes lengthen. Follow the Golden Ratio, one-third torso and two-thirds leg for an interesting silhouette.

If you want to go for an elegant look, stick to three colors or less. For a quiet luxe look, add in one casual element.

Generously Sized Bodies

Bags: Avoid too bulky shoulder bags that rest on the middle part of your body. They add bulk. Carry flat bags in a medium size or totes to draw the eye away. If a bag is too tiny it draws attention to the difference in scale.

Belts: For hourglass figures, a belt can define the thinnest point.

Fabric: Loose, long flowing layers of lightweight, tightly woven fabric are flattering. Avoid large patterns.  If you want to add a bright color, add a fitted blazer, oblong scarf or vest. Watch the volume of fabric. More volume makes you look bigger, so fabric choice is key.

Pants: Wear pants only if full-cut and topped with soft layers of vest and blouse or a big soft sweater. A blazer that covers the derriere can also create a good line. 

Tops: Cover the derriere with either a loose top, jacket or vest.

Skirts: Unless your legs are fit, avoid short skirts and look for long narrow skirts with elastic waists or loose flowing skirts. Avoid flouncy skirts; the added fabric enlarges the silhouette.

Jewelry: Long necklaces, pendants and dangling earrings can elongate the face; a pin at the shoulder can distract from a thick waist. If your neck is thick, avoid jewelry that calls attention to it, like chokers. Wear one bold piece, not a battery of them.

Petite Bodies

Style: Shop petite sizes, if possible, for those 5’4” and under. Tailored clothing defines the body. Avoid excessively oversized clothing like lots of pleats and volumes of fabric.

Accessories: Choose carefully. Small women can look cluttered and overwhelmed by large pieces. Keep bags and jewelry on the smaller side. Think about the scale of the piece compared to your frame. A large tote will only make you look more petite.

Alterations: Keep proportions in mind. Don’t just hem pants that are too long, taper the leg.

Belts: If the waist is thicker, favor narrow belts over wide belts. 

Details: Avoid large lapels, buttons or cuffs.

Patterns: Large patterns can overwhelm

Skirts: Avoid stiff A-lines as they create a squat silhouette.  IF your legs are good, short slim skirts are flattering because they create the illusion of longer legs.

Large Busts

Belts: Don’t wear wide belts and other styles that shorten the upper body and call more attention to it.

Bottoms: If you are slender below the waist, wear pants or skirts in brighter or lighter colors than the top, or patterns. This will deemphasize the top and make the bottom part of your body appear larger.

Dresses: Avoid empire bodices, experiment with A-line or sheath dresses. Try midi skirts.

Tops: Draw the focus away from the upper body with open collars, V-necks, scoop necklines or unfussy designs.  Unstructured flowing tops or jackets in gently fitted styles are flattering.  Fit is important. Make sure it’s not too tight and gives room to move freely. Avoid bodysuits, boxy jackets, flap or patch pockets over the chest, buttons or ruffles over the chest or halter tops or strapless.

Jewelry: Use jewelry to distract from your chest: wear bracelets and earrings. Don’t wear pins, necklaces or pendants that hang low.

Wide Lower Body

Dresses: Unless you have a small waist, choose dresses that are beltless with straight lines. Tailored structured dresses that drape from the shoulder, empire bodices, fit and flare, wrap and sometimes off the shoulder dresses look amazing, too.  

Pants: Wear a fuller leg style to balance hips. Avoid tapered pants that emphasize the difference between thighs and calves. Avoid pants that are pleated, or side pocketed. Wear Straight, bootcut or flare styles. Dark colors are slimming. No skinny, tight-legged pants. If you have big thighs, look for soft minimally detailed wide-leg pants.   

Tops: If small shouldered, wear a soft shoulder pad to balance top to bottom. Avoid cropped jackets or jackets that end at the hip line. Do wear jackets that flare over thighs and long jackets can work well, too. Where a hemline ends, that’s where your eye looks. You can tuck a top loosely in center waistline to elongate leg. Bright, light colors and stripes draw attention from your bottom half.

Skirts: Wear loose skirts with a drape or soft pleats. Avoid tight Lycra-blend skirts unless your top covers your thighs.

The Long and Short of Dressing Your Body Shape

There are so many more tricks for body issues. Consult with an image consultant for more tips. It’s a good idea to have a great alterations person in your back pocket, too. Confidence in stepping out in any outfit is key. Standing a little straighter, adding a little makeup and possibly a new hairstyle will also give you the charm you need to feel honestly you.